If you've ever slammed through the gears under hard acceleration and felt like the engine was trying to jump out of the engine bay, it's probably time to talk about your Ford Focus ST motor mounts. It's one of those quirks that almost every owner notices within the first week of driving. The car is punchy, the torque comes on quick, but the factory mounting system feels a bit well, soft. It's a common gripe in the ST community, and honestly, it's usually the very first thing people change before they even think about adding more power.
The Focus ST is a fantastic hot hatch, but Ford had to make some compromises to keep the general public happy. They wanted a car that felt smooth and quiet during a daily commute, which meant using rubber bushings that are designed to absorb every little vibration. The downside? Those soft bushings allow for a massive amount of engine movement. When you're giving it the beans, that engine is rocking back and forth, leading to that dreaded "1-2 shift bang" and a whole lot of wheel hop.
Identifying the weak link in the system
There are actually three main mounts holding things in place: the passenger side mount, the driver side (transmission) mount, and the infamous rear motor mount. While all of them play a role, the rear motor mount (RMM) is the one that causes about 90% of the headaches. It's the primary stabilizer that prevents the engine from rotating under torque.
On the earlier 2013 models, the factory RMM was notoriously weak. Ford eventually updated it to the "e-Focus" mount, which was a bit stiffer, but even that falls short once you start adding a tune or even just driving the car the way it was meant to be driven. If you're still running the stock setup, you're leaving a lot of performance—and shift quality—on the table.
Upgrading your Ford Focus ST motor mounts isn't just about stopping a noise; it's about changing how the car puts power to the ground. When the engine stays still, the energy goes directly to the wheels instead of being wasted on swinging a heavy lump of iron and aluminum back and forth.
The trade-off: Understanding NVH
Before you go out and buy the stiffest mounts on the market, we need to talk about NVH. That stands for Noise, Vibration, and Harshness. In the world of car mods, there's no such thing as a free lunch. When you replace soft rubber with stiff polyurethane or solid materials, those vibrations that used to be absorbed by the mount are now going to be felt in the cabin.
For some people, a little extra vibration at idle is a small price to pay for a car that feels "planted." For others, it's a dealbreaker. If you do a lot of stop-and-go driving with the A/C on, you're going to notice it. Your steering wheel might hum a little more, and the plastic trim in the dash might develop a new rattle.
The good news is that most high-quality aftermarket Ford Focus ST motor mounts come in different stiffness levels, usually measured by a "durometer" rating. A 60A or 70A rating is generally considered "street-friendly," offering a huge improvement over stock without making your teeth chatter. If you go up to 80A or 90A, you're getting into track-day territory where performance is the only thing that matters.
Why the Rear Motor Mount is the first move
If you're on a budget or just starting out, the RMM is where you spend your money. Replacing just this one mount can transform the car. You'll notice immediately that the gear shifts feel crisper. Because the engine isn't lurching, the shift linkage stays aligned, making it easier to click into second and third gear during spirited driving.
Wheel hop is another big one. You know that violent shaking the front wheels do when they struggle for traction in the rain or from a stop? A solid RMM keeps the geometry of the suspension and axles more consistent, which helps the tires find grip instead of bouncing off the pavement. It's safer for your axles, too, as that bouncing is a great way to snap a CV joint.
Don't ignore the side mounts
While the RMM gets all the glory, the passenger and driver-side mounts are just as important if you're chasing the best possible feel. As the RMM gets stiffer, it actually puts more stress on the two side mounts. If you've upgraded the rear but left the sides stock, you might find that those factory rubber mounts start to wear out even faster.
Upgrading all three Ford Focus ST motor mounts creates a "triangulated" support system. This completely locks down the drivetrain. It's a night-and-day difference. Suddenly, the car feels like one cohesive unit rather than a collection of parts moving at different speeds. You get better throttle response because the torque doesn't have to "wind up" the engine mounts before it hits the tires. It's an instant connection between your right foot and the asphalt.
Choosing the right brand and material
There are a ton of companies making Ford Focus ST motor mounts these days, and honestly, we're spoiled for choice. You've got big names like Cobb, Mountune, and Boomba, plus specialized shops like Damond Motorsports or JBR (James Barone Racing).
- Cobb and Mountune tend to offer mounts that are very balanced. They're great for daily drivers who want a boost in performance without ruining the car's civility.
- Damond and JBR are often the go-to for people who want the ultimate in stability. Their designs are beefy and built to handle high-horsepower builds.
- Boomba is famous for their heavy-duty pieces that look like works of art under the hood, but they definitely lean toward the stiffer side of the spectrum.
When you're shopping, look at the bushing design. Some mounts use a vertical bushing, while others use a horizontal one. There are endless debates on the forums about which is better, but generally, a well-engineered mount from a reputable brand is going to do the job regardless of the orientation.
A few tips for the install
If you're a DIYer, changing the Ford Focus ST motor mounts is a pretty straightforward job that you can do in your driveway with a decent set of tools and a floor jack. The RMM is especially easy—it's just a few bolts once you get the under-tray off.
However, a quick word of advice: always use a jack to support the engine. You don't want the engine sagging or shifting while the mount is out, as getting the bolt holes to realign can be a nightmare if the engine moves too far. Also, be prepared for the "break-in" period. Brand new polyurethane bushings are at their stiffest right out of the box. Give them 500 to 1,000 miles to settle in. Usually, the vibrations will settle down significantly after they've had some heat cycles and a bit of road time.
Also, don't forget the Loctite. These mounts deal with a lot of vibration (obviously), and the last thing you want is a mounting bolt backing out while you're cruising down the highway. Torque everything to spec, check it again after a week of driving, and you'll be golden.
Final thoughts on the upgrade
At the end of the day, upgrading your Ford Focus ST motor mounts is about making the car feel like it should have from the factory. It's one of those rare mods that doesn't necessarily add horsepower on a dyno, but it makes the car feel faster and more responsive in the real world.
Whether you're tired of that annoying "bang" during shifts or you're tired of the front wheels hopping every time it rains, a set of solid mounts is the answer. Just be honest with yourself about how much vibration you can live with, pick a durometer that fits your lifestyle, and enjoy a much more connected driving experience. It's arguably the best bang-for-your-buck modification you can do for this platform.